Walthamstow-Guide-band

12 Hours In And Around Walthamstow

 

12 HOURS IN AND AROUND WALTHAMSTOW

WORDS BY DIVYA SEHGAL

Walthamstow lies conveniently at the end of the Victoria Line, giving easy access to Central London. It’s flanked by Epping Forest — the largest green space in London — to the East and the Walthamstow Wetlands to the West. Having gone through a transformation in recent years, “#awesomestow” (as it’s known by Twitterrati) certainly has a lot to offer.

9.00 a.m.

Once you alight at Walthamstow Central station, you can either go straight into Walthamstow Village, the oldest part of present-day Walthamstow, or walk down Hoe Street, which divides the area smack down the centre between the Village and the slightly edgier part of Walthamstow (which also includes the acclaimed market).

Hoe Street has had a host of shops, restaurants, and yoga studios open up in the past few years. If you want to grab a quick coffee and toastie for breakfast, head to Today Bread, the local sourdough bakery and café. A five-minute walk from the station, the café is located in a historic post-war building that previously hosted a bank and council offices. They lay huge emphasis on shopping and eating local, and to that effect, the cheese for their famous cheese toastie is sourced from Buchanan’s, an artisan cheesemonger in Mayfair. And if you like their sourdough breads, you can even try your hand at their bread-making course.

Avocado Sandwich with Poached Egg - sliced avocado and egg on toasted bread for healthy breakfast or snack.

If you fancy walking the length of Hoe Street for a hearty veggie or vegan breakfast, try Buhler and Co. They serve up classics like avocado on toast with poached egg or feta, a vegan fry up which includes fried corn and polenta cake, Portobello mushroom, smokey bean spread, and parathas. If you’re looking for a community vibe, try the vegan Hornbeam Café, which prioritises sustainable and low-cost living.

Today Bread, 6-10 Central Parade, 137 Hoe Street, London E17 4RT. Phone: 07957 158184

Buhler and Co, 8 Chingford Road, London E17 4PJ. Phone: 020 8527 3652

Hornbeam Community Cafe & Environment Centre, 458 Hoe Street, Walthamstow, London E17 9AH. Phone: 020 8558 6880. Closed Mondays.

11:00 a.m.

Make your way to one of Walthamstow’s greatest treasures, William Morris Gallery. A short walk from Hoe Street, the gallery explores the legacy of textile designer, craftsman, poet, novelist, and socialist William Morris. Explore his life through the rooms of the house or have a look at some of the collections on display. The house, called “Water House” when William Morris lived there, leads to Lloyds Park that hosts the annual Walthamstow Garden Party by the Barbican.

william-morris-gallery-london

If you’re in the mood to shop instead, head to Walthamstow Market, the longest outdoor street market in Europe! From Monday to Saturday, you’ll fine fruit and veg and household goods on sale. But come Sunday, it transforms into a farmers’ market with the best local produce on sale like organic eggs, artisanal cheeses, cooked sausages, and more. Skip to the close by Wood Street Indoor Market, in the shape of a horseshoe, which is filled with antiques, second hand books, old magazines, and other knick knacks.

William Morris Gallery, Lloyd Park, Forest Road, London E17 4PP. Phone: 020 8496 4390

Lloyd Park, Forest Road, Walthamstow, London E17 4PP. Phone: 020 8497 3000

Walthamstow Market, E17 7AH

Wood Street Indoor Market, 98-100 Wood Street, Walthamstow, London E17 3HX. Phone: 020 8521 0410

12.30 p.m.

After a long, relaxing walk at Lloyds Park or an amble at the markets, you will probably want to sit down for a bite to eat. There are plenty of options in Walthamstow, especially if you’re craving some rustic sourdough pizzas. Hop to Sodo, which lies in a former warehouse, or the more popular Yard Sale Pizza, for a bite. If you’d like something more substantial, Walthamstow High Street has plenty of options. You can try Turtle Bay for Caribbean food or Yum Yum E17 if you’re in the mood for Thai, and finally finish off with pancakes from Creams for dessert.

Sodo, 21 Hatherley Mews, Walthamstow, London E17 4QP. Phone: 020 8520 1244

Yard Sale Pizza, 105 Lower Clapton Road, London E5 0NP. Phone: 020 3602 9090

Turtle Bay, The Scene Cleveland Place, 269 High Street, London E17 7FD. Phone: 020 8520 7839

Yum Yum E17, 202 Hoe Street, E17 4BS London

2.00 p.m.

What better way to digest that lunch than to wander around London’s largest green space? Epping Forest covers a large part of North East London and Essex, including Walthamstow, and you can take several walking trails to explore this beautiful, largely untouched area. Mill Plain, especially, offers fantastic views of the London skyline.

Walthamstow Reservoir_001

If you want to explore nature but not wander in to the deep thickets of a forest, you could make your way towards the Walthamstow Wetlands. Hailed as Europe’s biggest urban wetlands, this reserve is important for all sorts of wildlife and wintering and breeding birds. Whichever one you choose, you’ll be right in the lap of Mother Nature.

Epping Forest, North East London & Essex

Walthamstow Wetlands, 2 Forest Road, London N17 9NH. Phone: 020 8496 2115

4:00 p.m.

As you make your way back from Epping Forest or the Wetlands, you have the choice of going to Walthamstow Village (to know a little bit more about the history and heritage of Waltham Forest in Vestry House Museum), or you could wander into the neon wonderland that is God’s Own Junkyard, an unassuming warehouse filled with old vintage movie signs. Situated in Ravenswood Industrial Estate, it’s probably the best place to be for evening drinks. There’s also a café inside the Junkyard if you’d like a pick-me-up while chilling on their sofas.

Vestry House Museum, Vestry Road, Walthamstow, London E17 9NH.

God’s Own Junkyard, Unit 12, Ravenswood Industrial Estate, Shernhall Street, Walthamstow, London E17 9HQ. Phone: 020 8521 8066

7.30 p.m.

Now is when Walthamstow well and truly comes alive. There’s been a surge in bars and breweries in the past few years in the area, and if you’re already at God’s Own Junkyard you just have to step out and enter Pillars Brewery that is best known for its lagers. You can also go around the corner to Wild Card Brewery, a microbrewery that as among the first watering holes to set up shop in Ravenswood Industrial Unit.

Gin Tonic Cocktail with slice of lemon

If beer isn’t your thing, head to Mother’s Ruin Gin Palace for a whole variety of hand-crafted flavoured gins. It’s a definite favourite among the Stow locals! For something fancier, Mirth, Marvel, Maud is one to check out. Set in a Grade II listed building that was once a famous cinema frequented by Alfred Hitchcock, it’s the perfect place to kick back with some lip-smacking cocktails.

Mirth, Marvel, Maud, 186 Hoe Street, Walthamstow, London E17 4QH. Phone: 020 8520 8636

Wild Card Brewery, Unit 7, Ravenswood Industrial Estate, Shernhall Street, Walthamstow, E17 9HQ. Phone: 020 8935 5560

Pillars Brewery, Unit 2 Ravenswood Industrial Estate, Shernhall Street, Walthamstow E17 9HQ. Phone: 020 8521 5552

Mother’s Ruin, Unit 18, Ravenswood Industrial Estate, Shernhall St, London E17 9HQ. Phone: 07905 484711

9:00 p.m.

End your fantastic day with a truly delicious meal. Walthamstow has plenty to offer when it comes to dining, and it caters to a good range of budgets. If you’ve had one too many to drink and want something greasy and hearty to soak up all that alcohol, head to The Castle in Walthamstow Village where you’ll be served classic pub fare with a side of charming community vibe. Dogs and babies welcome. If meat is more your thing, go forth to Gokyuzu, a Turkish restaurant serving mixed grills and an array of mezze (for a large group, definitely get the mixed grills platter). For something more European, you will find Spanish tapas at Orford Saloon. But if you’re looking for some really good modern British food, go to the original Eat 17 in the Village that was started by two brothers from Walthamstow.

The Castle, 15 Grosvenor Rise E, Walthamstow, London E17 9LB. Phone: 020 8509 8095

Gokyuzu, 42D Selbourne Walk, Walthamstow, London, E17 7JR. Phone: 020 8520 2998

Orford Saloon Tapas Bar, 32 Orford Road, Walthamstow, London, E17 9NJ. Phone: 020 8503 6542

Eat 17, 28-30 Orford Road, Walthamstow, London E17 9NJ. Phone: 020 8521 5279

 
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Discover Stunning Contemporary Art at Halcyon Gallery

 

halcyon gallery new bond street city of westminster london

DISCOVER STUNNING CONTEMPORARY ART AT HALCYON GALLERY

Halcyon Gallery was founded in 1982 and showcases modern and contemporary art from artists worldwide. It has three locations in London – at 29 New Bond Street (an intimate space), 144-146 New Bond Street (a space covering three levels), and in Harrods.

Halcyon Gallery, 29 New Bond Street, London, W1S 2RL. Phone: 020 7499 450

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

In a city like London that is replete with world famous galleries and museums, it’s not often that one ventures to smaller, more specialist ones. But, over the years, Halcyon Gallery in New Bond Street has carved a niche for itself. Like the Tate Modern, it specialises in modern and contemporary art from emerging and established artists. Unlike the Tate Modern, which was founded in 1897, Halcyon Gallery is only 37 years old.

Because of the way shops are situated in New Bond Street – like numbered houses – when you walk into the gallery, it almost feels like you’ve entered the living room of a mansion with large paintings that line the walls and sculptures that dot the floors. Smaller galleries and museums have a more personal feel. There are usually fewer people, as these spaces aren’t as “touristy”, and you get to discover the best contemporary artists. The first time I visited Halcyon Gallery was to see the works of renowned glass blower Dale Chihuly, and I thought it was an apt space for his glass art.

If you want a taste of the art scene beyond the hustle and bustle of the popular, large galleries, Halcyon at 29, New Bond Street is where you should be. Just like its name suggests, it evokes serenity and tranquillity, which indeed is vital to appreciate art.

Feature photograph courtesy Halcyon Gallery

 

 
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Head To God’s Own Junkyard For A Lit Weekend

 

god's own junkyard

HEAD TO GOD'S OWN JUNKYARD FOR A LIT WEEKEND

Located in Walthamstow is God’s Own Junkyard, a salvage yard containing the personal works of late neon artist Chris Bracey. You can find props, backdrops, and signage Bracey made for movies like Blade Runner alongside vintage signs and disco balls. It’s a neon paradise you can’t miss.

God’s Own Junkyard, Unit 12, Ravenswood Industrial Estate, Shernhall Street, London, E17 9HQ. Phone: 020 8521 8066. It is open on weekends: Friday & Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Rolling Scones Café is open for food and drinks all weekend.

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

It’s almost bizarre to think there is a wonderland of neon lights, vintage signs, and old movie props in a decrepit industrial estate on the edges of Walthamstow and Wood Street. A few years ago, Ravenswood Industrial Estate was a bit of a dump with no reason to go there unless you got lost looking for a garage. Today, it has been transformed into “the” place to be on a weekend. You have two breweries, a gin bar, a regular pizza stall, and the jewel in its crown: God’s Own Junkyard.

The late world-famous neon-artist Chris Bracey’s God’s Own Junkyard was the first shop to set up there, and it’s a psychedelic world of its own. He created signs for a number of movies, including Blade Runner and four Batman films and, sure enough, the props, backdrops, and signage used in those movies are displayed in God’s Own Junkyard.

Instantly Intsagrammable from the threshold of this weird and wonderful place, you’ll find at the most popular spot a Jesus statue holding neon guns under a sign saying, “Madonna’s Erotic Show”. It’s indeed reminiscent of the Jesus statue in Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo and Juliet. And while you’re there, you can give your neck and eyes a bit of a break by stopping for some cream tea, cakes, sandwiches, or coffee. God’s Own Junkyard houses a café, The Rolling Scones. But of course, it’s just a side act to the wondrous colourful, trippy, lit up world of disco balls and wacky signs.

 
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Spitalfields Market Has Something For Everyone

 

spitalfields market

SPITALFIELDS MARKET HAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

At Spitalfields Market, you can shop for apparels and accessories, indulge in some delicious street food and people-watching or even set up a stall of your own. Milling with crowds on most days, this bustling market is a hotbed of activity for locals and tourists alike.

Spitalfields Market, 16 Horner Square, London E1 6EW. Phone: 020 7375 2963

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

It’s a whole world out there in Spitalfields: food and drink, stalls of apparel, handmade jewellery and art prints, community events, and more. You can’t go wrong with spending an afternoon (or the whole day) in this trendy lively East End area. Granted, it has become more popular over the years and you almost don’t want to head there on your “chill out” weekend. But working near Liverpool Street has its perks; Spitalfields Market is my lunch time treat every Friday. I pick up my Spicy Mediterranean Box from Badolina, sit at the entrance of the market, opposite Patisserie Valerie, and watch the crowds go by. It’s not all office-goers out during their lunch break either. You can spot tourists, families, couples, and groups of friends from across the Channel. It’s a treat to watch – and that’s just from outside!

Divided into roughly three types of markets, Spitalfields devotes itself to independent artists who sell their wares at the Spitalfields Arts Market. At the Saturday Style Market, you’ll see traders selling apparel, accessories, homeware, and other goods, and the Traders Market at Crispin Place is open all seven days. Let’s not forget the plethora of sit-down restaurants plus food stalls. As the saying goes, there’s something for everyone in this glorious melange of shops. If none of this pleases you, Brick Lane is just a short walk away, with food and vintage shops nearly spilling onto its streets.

P.S.: If you’re an independent artist or a trader, you can get in touch with Spitalfields Market to set up a stall.

Feature photograph by Alan Stanton [CC-BY-SA-2.0], via Flickr

 
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Leadenhall Market Is A Cinematic Landmark

 

leadenhall market city of london

LEADENHALL MARKET IS A CINEMATIC LANDMARK

It’s one thing to spot the ornate Victorian roof on screen and another to actually walk on the cobbled floors of Leadenhall Market. The covered lanes, vintage lamps, and uniformly gilded shop signs at one of London’s oldest markets make the experience of shopping here a rather magical one.

Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch Street, London EC3V 1LT. Phone: 020 7332 1523

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

Rich in history, Leadenhall Market dates back to the 14th Century when it was established for the sale of game and poultry but, like everything in Central London, it’s had a major makeover since then. You’ll be hard pressed to see a butcher operating there today. The market is more along the lines of an upscale mall with high street shops catering to affluent city folk who wear Barbour coats, drink fine wine, and eat a Chop’d salad for lunch.

As a covered market with a magnificent Victorian roof, Leadenhall Market has had its share of hardships, the biggest being the Great Fire of London of 1666. Since being redesigned and revamped, Leadenhall Market has been granted Grade II Heritage listed status. Like with most iconic places in London, the best time to visit Leadenhall Market is during Christmas. The Victorian structure never has as much appeal as it does when the festive lights are switched on, the halls are decked with holly, and there’s a great big Christmas tree adorning the entrance. Not to mention the carolers and last minute Christmas shoppers.

For those of you who jump at any Harry Potter trivia, Leadenhall Market was used as Diagon Alley in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. So next time you’re up there enjoying a bit of retail therapy, look around at the stunning market and picture Harry and Co. buying their first wands.

Feature photograph by Diliff at the English language Wikipedia [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

 
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Thrift Shopping and Delicious Food At Petticoat Lane Market

 

petticoat lane market

THRIFT SHOPPING AND DELICIOUS FOOD AT PETTICOAT LANE MARKET

Petticoat Lane Market was set up in the mid-1700s in what was then called Petticoat Lane; since the 1800s, the street has been known as Middlesex Street. Although you may or may not be able to buy vintage skirts at Petticoat Lane Market anymore, you can certainly walk through the bustling lanes of East End with a shopping bag in one hand and a falafel roll in the other.

Petticoat Lane Market, 119-121 Middlesex Street, London E1 7JF

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

There are plenty of markets in London that deserve to be ticked off the “must-see” list, but there are some that sit quietly and confidently in the shadows, moving along yet barely changing with the years, waiting to be discovered. Say “aye” into your coffee mug if you’ve been to Petticoat Lane Market. You’re probably in the minority.

You’d be forgiven to think that Petticoat Lane Market in the East End of London actually sits in Petticoat Lane. The name of the street no longer exists, having changed to Middlesex Street in the 1800s. Sadly, for whatever reason (not hipster enough?), Petticoat Lane Market is not on most tourists’ radar. It holds many clues to the history of London’s East End, like when it was (illegally) set up in the mid-1700s and slowly became a centre for manufacturing clothes. Or when it became a safe haven for Jewish immigrants fleeing persecution in Eastern Europe in the late 1800s.

A few hundred yards away from Spitalfields Market, Petticoat Lane Market is still thriving today. On Sundays, you’ll see stalls upon stalls selling clothes and (super cheap) woven goods. On the other six days, it’s the venue for lunch time trade with hawkers selling Katsu curry and rolls, chana masala with rice, falafel rolls, coffee on wheels, and more.

PS: If you’re a fan of The Apprentice, you should know that Alan Sugar started his business with his first stall smack in the middle of Petticoat Lane Market.

Feature photograph by Andrew Dunn [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

 
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Experience The Best Of Mughlai Cuisine At Grand Trunk Road

grand trunk road indian restaurant london
 

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF MUGHLAI CUISINE AT GRAND TRUNK ROAD

Grand Trunk Road is an Indian restaurant in South Woodford whose menu is inspired by the best of North Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, and Afghan cuisine. The butter chicken and dal Bukhara alone are worth going to Zone 4.

Grand Trunk Road, 219 High Road, London E18 2PB. Phone: 020 8505 1965

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

"....And truly the Grand Trunk Road is a wonderful spectacle. It runs straight, bearing without crowding India's traffic for fifteen hundred miles – such a river of life as nowhere else exists in the world."
– Rudyard Kipling on the Grand Trunk Road in his novel, Kim

London is no stranger to curry houses. They firmly dot every borough, with new ones popping up every now and then. But when teams behind renowned Michelin-starred restaurants start opening their own ventures in lesser-known suburbs of London, it's worth sitting up and taking notice. So when Grand Trunk Road opened in leafy South Woodford, an area that has known only Bangladeshi (Indian) inspired curry take-aways, there was a definite gleam in my eye and a spring in my step. After all, rumours (now confirmed) suggested this restaurant had been opened by Rajesh Suri, former general manager of Tamarind in Mayfair.

But what intrigued me more was the name. In India, the cuisine of the North-West frontier – fondly known as "Mughlai", or the cuisine that thrived during and after the Mughal rule in India – is possibly the most-loved. Nothing beats a bowl of hot, steaming, creamy dal bukhara (or dal makahni, a Punjabi cousin of the former) or butter chicken with a pillowy butter naan, dishes that are lacking in London’s non-Michelin starred Indian restaurants. My vote for the best dal makhani in London would go to Dishoom – but that was before I dined at Grand Trunk Road.

Nothing beats a bowl of hot, steaming, creamy dal bukhara or butter chicken with a pillowy butter naan.

The name refers to one of Asia's oldest and longest major roads – linking South Asia with Central Asia – from Chittagong in Bangladesh across Northern India through Delhi, moving on to Lahore and Peshawar in Pakistan and finally ending in Kabul, Afghanistan. As for the food? The menu has been inspired from all these places. It’s the first time I’ve seen butter chicken on a menu in London – I’m not usually a fan of sweet-tangy Indian curries, but I had to taste this, if only to see if it was authentic.

We skipped the starters to try a selection of main courses – including, of course, the butter chicken – and with just two people, that’s quite a meal. But I already knew I was coming back. Everything from the décor to the service screamed “home” to me. It replicated the opulence and attention to detail that is a hallmark of Mughlai and Awadhi restaurants in India.

Along with the Amritsari butter chicken, we ordered Lahori keema muttar and my beloved dal bukhara. And while I’d usually go for the butter or garlic naan or a tandoori roti, I noticed they were also serving missi roti, a bread made from gram flour and something I’d never touch in India. But nostalgia is a strange thing; it creeps up and takes you by surprise when you least expect it. All of it, including the missi roti, hit all the right spots. Gongs sounded in my head with every bite, and not just because the food was delicious and reminiscent of Saturday evening dinners with my family, but also with the knowledge that here’s a restaurant that is only a 15-minute drive from where I live. If I ever feel homesick, it’s just the right place to cure me of it.

Feature photograph courtesy Grand Trunk Road

 
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A Book Club Tour Of London’s Literary Greats

sherlock holmes museum
 

A BOOK CLUB TOUR OF LONDON'S LITERARY GREAT'S

221B Baker Street is a fictional address in the City of Westminster that was the home of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s most famous character, Sherlock Holmes. Awkwardly placed between the real 237 and 241 Baker Street, it is now the Sherlock Holmes Museum and has become a literary landmark.

The Sherlock Holmes Museum, 221B Baker Steet, Marylebone, London NW1 6XE. Phoner: 020 7224 3688

The Langham Hotel, 1C Portland Place, Marylebone, London W1B 1JA. Phone: 020 7636 1000

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

On a perfect summer’s eve, my book club mates and I met at Baker Street by the 7ft tall statue of Sherlock Holmes. For that particular month, we were reading The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes, so 221B Baker Street (where Holmes lived) was the obvious choice. One of the members remarked that they had never actually done a literary tour of Baker Street despite having lived in London all their life. That, in my opinion, is a mark of a true Londoner, or anyone who has lived their entire life in one city – they almost never tend to the see the big “tourist” spots unless they happen to go out with actual tourists. It seemed apt, then, that our first real jaunt of this gigantic tour de force of literature happened during a book club meet.

We sauntered towards 221B, which was, of course, closed – don’t all tourist spots in the UK close at 4 p.m.? – but we took some pictures by the door and read the inscriptions outside, that ubiquitous shiny blue plaque that is dotted across Central London.

But this was to be a literary tour, and a tour by definition requires you to visit more than just one place. So we then made our way to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s medical practice at No. 2 Upper Wimpole Street. It was here that he set up his (failed) career as an ophthalmologist and where he wrote the majority of Sherlock Holmes works while waiting for his patients (interestingly, it continues to be offices shared by medical professionals today). On our way to the medical practice, we happened to spot a plaque dedicated to Isaac Asimov, who was a member of the “Baker Street Irregulars”, one of the oldest and largest organisations devoted to Sherlock Holmes fandom.

sherlock holmes museum

Yet another surprise (again, before we had even reached Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s practice) awaited us in the form of a mural of Charles Dickens and his most popular characters, marking the space in Marylebone where he lived for a considerable amount of time. Here we were, a bunch of Sherlock Holmes geeks who thought Baker Street and its surroundings were solely devoted to the detective who some people think actually did exist – how naïve of us to ignore London’s great literary past, Asimov and Dickens – two giants who don’t quite feature in “tourist” guides when referring to Baker Street. What was meant to be a Sherlock special book club meeting turned into a true literary walk. So much of 19th and 20th Century literature marks different spots of London, it’s almost impossible to keenly seek them out.

sherlock holmes museum the langham hotel

We ended this particular meet at Upper Wimpole Street after seeing where Doyle created the works that made his most famous character the icon he currently is. And since this was such a success with everyone in the group, we decided that we had to do it again for our next book, which was, in a way, connected to Sherlock Holmes. We decided to read The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde and meet at The Langham Hotel just by Oxford Street. The connection? Oscar Wilde and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle famously dined at The Langham with the publisher of Lippincott's Magazine, which led to the commissioning of The Picture of Dorian Gray and one of the best loved Sherlock Holmes stories, “The Sign of Four”. If you happen to wander past Oxford Street, take a slight detour to The Langham Hotel to read the blue plaque that commemorates this meeting – a small piece of literary history tucked in a corner of one of London’s most bustling areas.

Sherlock Holmes Museum photo by Anders Thirsgaard Rasmussen (Sherlock Holmes Museum) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Plaque photo by Spudgun67 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

The Langham Hotel photo by The Langham, London (The Langham, London) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

 
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Madame D Aims For Himalayan Heights

 

madame d nepali tibetan cuisine restaurant london tower hamlets

MADAME D AIMS FOR HIMALAYAN HEIGHTS

Madame D serves small plates of Nepali, Tibetan, and Indo-Chinese dishes. The menu includes chilli paneer, beef puffs, and momos, but most patrons swear by the prawn crackers.

Madame D, 76 Commercial Street, London E1 6LY. Phone: 020 7247 1341

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S STORY

A lot has been written and said about Madame D, the second restaurant by the owners of Gunpowder, inspired by Himalayan cuisine and showcasing the flavours of North East India, Nepal, and China. Like Gunpowder (and many other new restaurants with cramped spaces in London’s crowded restaurant scene), Madame D specialises in serving small plates to be shared. This meant that the limited menu shrank further for my dining companion and me – some of their dishes have MSG, but they were happy to accommodate my requirements and mark the dishes that don't.

From what I could eat, I can tell you that Madame D is all about the heat – the broken Naga chilli in the chilli lemonade infused the drink with its spices as long as I let it sit inside, making my lemonade the opposite of refreshing. But it’s the prawn crackers, those unassuming crisps most Asian restaurants serve, that Madame D takes to a whole new tantalising level. Accompanied by a spicy prawn pickle and tangy grated carrot kimchi, they were the best start we could have asked for.

The food that followed was delicious but not as fiery as the crackers and pickle we got earlier. In a city that boasts some of the best Indian restaurants outside the Indian subcontinent, it can be quite hard to hit the right flavour profile, but Madame D is bold, inventive, and confident – three qualities that are the bedrock of great food.

Feature photo by See-ming Lee [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

 
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10 Questions With Jewellery Designer Keeley Hogg

keeley hogg i love dolly jewellery designer
 

10 QUESTIONS WITH JEWELLERY DESIGNER KEELEY HOGG

Keeley Hogg is a jewellery designer and maker and owner of the brand I Love Dolly. All of her pieces are handcrafted using traditional methods. You can buy I Love Dolly jewellery from their Etsy page. You can also get in touch with Keeley and commission pieces by contacting her on her Instagram page.

READ DIVYA SEHGAL'S INTERVIEW WITH KEELEY HOGG

Calling Keeley Hogg a mere “jewellery designer” is a bit of a misnomer: she’s more of a jewellery maker, a copper and silversmith, if you will. Give her a piece of copper and silver and she’ll turn these sheets and wires into earrings, pendants, bracelets, and even cufflinks. All her pieces, which can take up to 12 hours to make, are carefully and painstakingly created by hand. And she wouldn’t have it any other way. The City Story spoke with Keeley to find out what exactly attracted her to this craft and the story behind her jewellery brand I Love Dolly.

The City Story: When did you start making/designing Jewellery?

KH: Gosh, some time ago now – time flies! My former mother-in-law bought me some tools and was into all sorts of crafts including jewellery making which really inspired me to have a go. I started off with simple beading, which turned to wire-wrapping, which turned to silversmithing. I never knew the technical skill required for setting a stone until now. It's great to look at pieces of jewellery and understand the work involved.

TCS: What attracted you to this craft?

KH: I have dabbled in lots of crafts over the years such as knitting, crochet, life drawing, painting, pottery...if you are creative, it can be difficult to stick to just one! But making jewellery is multi-faceted and a great stage on which to play out your ideas, experiment, grow, and be free to explore artistry and craft. The endless possibilities continue to flame my passion for it – working with a range of metals (including wire and sheet silver, gold, copper, bronze, brass), soldering, metal paints, clay, enamelling, gemstones, electroforming, etching, upcycled materials – it taps into everything you could want creatively.

It helps that I love jewellery too!

silversmith keeley hogg i love dolly

TCS: Describe a typical day in your Jewellery studio – including the stages the metal and stone go through from start to finish.

KH: Well there is generally a lot of tea drinking involved! But aside from that, you start with a raw piece of sheet metal or wire, and it is then transformed using many processes such as sawing, filing, bending, shaping, texturing, hammering, soldering, and polishing before it looks like something you would want to wear. All of my jewellery is crafted by hand using traditional methods that have been used for many, many years. It's amazing what you can create with a few basic tools! Just heating a piece of silver until it melts into a ball can be fascinating (it's the geek in me). Setting stones opens up a whole new love and passion, with all the processes they go through before you buy them and they end up in a ring or in a brooch. I recently discovered the iolite stone (a purply-blue coloured stone). It's depth of colour is brilliant.

TCS: What's your favourite metal and stone to work with?

KH: There are so many types of stones, I really couldn't choose! I spent a day out at Hatton Garden recently buying gems (a place called Ward Gemstones, which is like heaven for jewellers). I had to be dragged away!

My passion for metal started with copper. It's a lovely rich colour that can be utterly transformed from the dull orange you see in, for example, your central heating pipes! It can be rustic or shiny and it can be soft and malleable to work with (perfect for weaving and wirewrapping). That said, silversmithing has given me the opportunity to really develop my skills and learn very advanced techniques I never thought would be accessible. I have learned most of my skills at very reasonably priced council-run courses in Waltham Forest and Redbridge where you get to meet inspiring tutors and fellow makers.

TCS: What are the key elements of your work?

KH: I like my pieces to look simple and elegant (even if the work involved tells a different story!) No two pieces are ever really the same when it comes to something handcrafted. The main point is to have a good workable design, an element of practicality and an immaculate finish.

TCS: Is there a story behind your brand name?

KH: Yes! My nan was called Doris and was often called Dolly. She was an inspiring, happy, positive, and feisty woman who was unfortunately only in my life into my early teens when she died. I still often think about her and would love her to have seen what I make. Calling my little shop I Love Dolly felt like the best way to have her somewhere in what I do.

silversmith keeley hogg i love dolly

TCS: Do you have a favourite piece of jewellery – one that you've designed or one that you wish you had designed and made. 

KH: My favourite pieces are those I have made for my husband. I made him a pair of cufflinks with the words “Vita Brevis” hand stamped onto them (he’s a Latin teacher and it was his dating profile date, which is how we met). They were an early creation in my silversmith career and are far from perfect – they are a little wonky and off centre and the hand stamping is uneven (with one letter even being back to front!) but he loves that I made them for him, which makes me love them too. I also made his wedding ring using sterling silver and gold and the two colours complement each other perfectly. I'm proud to see him wear and love something made with my own hands every day.

I am also inspired by jewellery from ancient times (the British Museum has lots on display) as techniques used then haven't changed much, which is astonishing when you think about how far we have come technology-wise in other respects. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it, I guess the old saying goes! They would have used pretty basic tools and some of the pieces are simply exquisite.

TCS: What are your design ethics? 

KH: It is always great to be inspired by other artists but you have to allow your own inspiration to do its work. So finding your own style is important. I still attend workshops/classes and if all the jewellers are set the same task it's unbelievable how different everyone's piece is!

TCS: How does your local surroundings/city inspire your work? 

KH: I like to draw on nature and things around me. I love geometric patterns and art deco styles. I sometimes work with old coins which are often beautifully patterned and textured as well as being steeped in history. I also scavenge for sea glass on beaches (around the UK and abroad). The best pieces for jewellery are perfectly frosted and discovering rare coloured glass is always a treat (and fascinating to learn why certain coloured glass ends up on particular beaches).

TCS: What's the final dream for I Love Dolly? 

KH: To keep being inspired, to keep learning and to continue to enjoy making pieces people love to wear. I am working on a commission piece at the moment for an anniversary gift and it is truly heartwarming to be able to transform their vision into the piece of jewellery they want to give their partner on such a special occasion. It is one of the best things about being a jeweller!